Everything Ferret

Grooming Your Ferret
Save Up To $15 On All Flea & Tick Products!
Topics Covered in this Article:

•   Nail Clipping
•   Brushing
•   Ear Cleaning
•   Flea Control
•   Bathing
•   Tooth Brushing


Grooming your ferret is a necessity.   Ferrets are fairly low maintenance when it comes to grooming, however certain things must be done on a weekly or monthly basis.  The most important things to remember are clipping nails, brushing fur, cleaning ears, controlling fleas, occasional bathing and occasional tooth brushing.  Below, you will find each item of grooming and a detailed description on how to perform each task.  See                                                            for  a complete list of grooming supplies.

Nail Clipping

Clipping a ferret's nails is very important.  The nails of a ferret will keep growing if not clipped and will eventually impede their ability to walk and get snagged in their bedding, often causing injury.  Please do not get your ferret declawed.  They will have to remove part of the ferret's toes in the procedure.  It is considered mutilation by many and is very painful for the ferret.

Materials

1) Sharp cat or human nail clippers.  If the clippers are dull, the nail will split, increasing the risk of getting caught on bedding or carpet.


2) Ferretone or other ferret "lickable" treat.


3) Styptic powder or a bar of soap.

                                 

Procedure

1)  If alone, put a few drops of Ferretone on your ferret's stomach.  He or she will try to lick the treat and will be distracted while you are clipping.  If you have someone to help you, have one person hold the ferret and administer the treat while the other person clips.

2) Clip the nail parallel to the floor, cutting it just above the pink-red vein or "quick."  It is important not to cut the quick, because it will bleed and cause your ferret pain.  If you accidentally cut the quick, put styptic powder on the nail or run the nail through a bar of soap to stop the bleeding.  It is a good idea to stop the nail clipping for a while after such an accident, for the ferret is usually traumatized.

3) Check your ferret's nails weekly to see if a clipping is needed, especially the front paws  (the front paws seem to grow faster than the back).
___________________________________________________________________________________

Brushing

Brushing your ferret regularly is an important way to prevent hairballs, especially during shedding seasons (fall and spring).  Unlike cats, ferrets do not cough up hair balls, and the hair balls can eventually cause blockages in their gastrointestinal tract.  A ferret who has ingested loose hair will develop a dry cough and can be given a one half inch to one inch ribbon of laxatone, Petroleum jelly (for ferrets with insulinomas) or cat hair ball remedy to help break up and pass the hair.  However, a cough could also be a sign of several other medical conditions, so a persistent cough should always be checked out by a veterinarian.

Materials Needed

1) Cat brush or ferret brush with soft or medium bristles.


2) Hairball Treatment (or Petroleum Jelly)


                                                              

Procedure

1) Sit down on the floor and let the bottom end of your ferret rest on the floor or your lap for support.  Brush using even strokes, and be prepared for a lot of squirming around! My ferrets are quite ticklish during brushings and enjoy attacking the brush when I am done.  Use a flea comb to remove fleas and eggs if your ferret has a flea problem.

2) A good test for loose fur is to gently pull on their coat in different areas to see if loose fur comes free.  You can usually notice a change in your ferret's coat texture and color when shedding begins. White soft under-fur usually begins to come in during the fall and their coat seems thicker and lighter in color.  In the summer they loose some of the white under-fur and grow a shorter, coarser coat. Regular brushings during shedding season (spring and fall) and occasional brushings in between will help keep their coat soft and their insides hair ball free.
__________________________________________________________________________________

Ear Cleaning

Ear cleanings are an important way to prevent wax buildup, which can lead to mite infestations, ear infections and hearing impairments.  
Ferret's ears are naturally very waxy, so buildup can happen quite frequently.  Normal ear wax tends to be light brown in color and may have a reddish tinge to it.  A ferret with ear mites will have dark brown or black visible wax.  Ear scratching usually occurs with mites as well. Check your ferret's ears weekly for signs of visible wax buildup.  If you suspect your ferret has ear mites, go see a veterinarian.

Materials

1) Ear cleaning solution designed for kittens or ferrets.



2) Cotton, cotton swabs or tissue.



Procedure

1) Ferrets generally dislike having their ears cleaned, so our mission is to make it as comfortable as possible.  It is an easier process with two people on the job, but one person can do it with patience and practice.  It helps to warm the ear solution by soaking the bottle in a cup of very warm tap water.  You can test the temperature by putting a few drops of the solution on the inside of your wrist.  It usually takes about ten or fifteen minutes to warm up.  Just make sure the solution is not HOT or too warm.

2)  Sit down on the floor and gently scruff your ferret, making sure it's legs are supported by your lap or the floor (dangling a ferret while scruffing it could lead to spinal injury).  Put a few drops of the solution in your ferret's ear and let it go, allowing the ferret to shake out the excess solution.  Give your ferret a treat, and then repeat the process with the other ear.  Another method is to put the solution directly on a cotton swab and gently swab the visible parts of the ear with the solution.  Be sure to avoid putting the swab in the ear canal, for severe damage could be done to the delicate bones of the inner ear.  The swabbing is tricky, because the ferret may begin to squirm and you may accidentally penetrate the inner ear.

3)  After applying the solution (using either method), scruff your ferret with one hand and begin removing the excess ear wax and solution by gently swabbing the visible parts of the ear with a dry cotton swab.  Be careful not to penetrate the ear canal.  A twisted piece of tissue or cotton can work as well.  Although this sounds easy, the ferret will usually squirm and scratch to get away.  Having a second person on hand to deliver "lick able" treats during the procedure is a good way to try and distract your ferret from what is going on.  Either way, it is important to reward your ferret with treats and affection after the procedure is done.  Eventually they will relate ear cleanings with rewards and things will get better over time.
___________________________________________________________________________________

Flea Control and Bathing

There are many different opinions on how often you should bath a ferret.  Some people say that you should never bath them unless they get dirty and other people say to bath them every two weeks.  I choose to bath my ferrets at the most once every four weeks, every two weeks during shedding seasons to help wash away loose fur.  You should not bath them more than every three weeks.  Over bathing can strip a ferret's coat of essential oils and cause itchy dry skin.  Believe it or not, over bathing will actually cause your ferret's musky odor to increase!

    Materials

1) A mild "tear free" shampoo (such as Johnson's Baby Shampoo), or a shampoo formulated for ferrets or kittens .   If fleas are present, use only a flea shampoo formulated for kittens -- not dogs or puppies.  Never use a flea dip or a flea collar.  Flea powder is also not recommended.  Call your veterinarian for flea control programs if shampooing with kitten flea shampoo and washing the bedding is not enough to solve the problem. Use caution with carpet flea sprays or flea bombs.  Make sure the ferrets are not in the house during bombing or spraying and they do not come in contact with the carpet for several hours after treatment.  Always vacuum thoroughly, and wipe down furniture.  Ferrets are low to the ground and their feet and fur can collect the flea poison.  This can lead to accidental poisoning or allergic reaction.  Ferrets are sensitive to fleas and can have severe allergic reactions to the bites.

2) Coat conditioner formulated for ferrets (optional-could cause skin irritation).

3) Lots of towels and blankets.



Procedure

I have found that bathing my ferrets one at a time in the kitchen sink to be the best bet.  Putting them in a tub filled with warm water generally fills my critters with fear and they try to jump out (although they love to splash around in paw deep water during playtime).   They also have a tendency to use the bathroom in the warm bath water (a little counter productive)!   Some ferrets like the water, but don't like getting soaped up once they are in the water.  Other ferrets love to get bathed in the tub.  It really depends on the personality of your ferret.

First, I warm the shampoo by placing the container in some hot tap water for about ten minutes before bathing time.  Ferrets should be bathed in water that is warm and comfortable.  They have a higher natural body temperature than humans, so coolish water and cold shampoo will be uncomfortable for them.
    
I start with gently placing them under the running water (I don't fill the sink up with water), holding their front and hind end.   I gently sway them back and forth through the water, soaking their coat while avoiding getting their face wet.    I then squirt a small amount of warmed shampoo onto their coat and begin to rub it in, again avoiding the face and eye area.  My ferrets generally hate this part and try to squirm and scratch.  Soft praise, a gentle touch and maybe a little treat usually works to calm them down.  After soaping them up, I gently sway them back and forth through the running water again, supporting their front and hind end.  Be sure to rinse all of the shampoo off of them.  Shampoo residue can cause skin irritation.  I usually wash their face and head with a damp wash cloth (no shampoo).

The fun part comes when the bath is over and drying has to be done.  Have an area set aside that is draft free.  Place old blankets or a pile of towels on the floor.  When you are finished rinsing your ferret, hold on tight!  My ferrets usually begin to squirm and try to leap out of my hands.  Have a towel handy and wrap them up in it.  I generally keep them low to the ground when I am transporting them to the drying area.  This keeps them from getting injured if they squirm out of my grasp.  Attempt to dry them off as well as you can and then let them loose in the blankets or towels.   You will find that your ferret has turned into a crazy, wet, speed demon!  My ferrets will run and try to dry themselves on any soft surface they can find.  It's great fun to watch!  
___________________________________________________________________________________

Tooth Brushing

You should brush your ferret's teeth at least once a month, preferably twice a month.  Ferrets can get tarter build up and tooth decay.  These dental problems can lead to kidney disease and other health issues.   Again, this is not a procedure your ferret will necessarily like, but with time and practice it will become routine and less scary for them.  You should have your ferret's teeth checked out by a veterinarian during yearly check ups, and consider having a professional cleaning done by your veterinarian if tartar buildup is present.

Materials

1) Soft finger, gauze or  toothbrush made for ferrets, cats or kittens.

2) Toothpaste formulated for cats, kittens or ferrets.


Procedure

Place a small dab of the tooth paste on the brush or gauze (you can add a tiny bit of Ferretone or Ferretvite to the toothpaste to improve the flavor).  Scruff your ferret and gently begin to brush the sides and bottoms of the back teeth, working your way around to the front teeth.  Brushing your ferret's teeth regularly is important,  because you may not be able to do a thorough brushing and hit all teeth every time.  My ferrets clamp their mouth shut and squirm terribly during teeth cleanings.  I usually just do one side of their mouth per sitting.  For example I will clean the right side in the morning and then do the other side later on in the evening.  This method gives them a chance to calm down, and I can do a better cleaning job.
    
Pay attention to the color of the foam from the tooth paste as you brush.  If it is red or pink with blood,  you may be brushing too hard and damaging the gums.  Don't put a lot of pressure on the tooth brush while you are brushing.  Bleeding gums can also be a sign of gum disease.  Check with your veterinarian if your ferret's gums bleed often, or if you see large amounts of tarter (gray/green areas on the tooth).  You may need a professional cleaning.  Gum disease and/or decaying teeth can lead to serious health problems for your ferret.

Article written by Mahri
EverythingFerret.com

See Ferret Supplies!



Home
___________________________________________________________________________________
About Us   ·   Ferret Memorials   ·   Ferret Photo Page!   ·   Ferret Classifieds   ·   Chat and Message Board   ·   Training the Domestic Ferret   ·   Ferret Ownership   ·   Ferret Nutrition   ·   Ten Tips to Help Keep Your Ferret Happy and Healthy   ·   Ferret Health Issues   ·   Housing Your Ferret   ·   Ferret Supplies   ·   Grooming the Domestic Ferret   ·   Ferret Book and Product Recommendations   ·   Links to Ferret Information   ·   Ferret Proofing   ·   Domestic Ferret Behavior   ·   Tips on Introducing Your Ferret(s) to a New Ferret   ·   Toy and Game Ideas   ·   Ferret Shelter List   ·   Frequently Asked Questions   ·   Ferret Stories   ·   Favorite Links   ·   Contact Us   ·   Coming Soon
___________________________________________________________________________________

The information provided in this section is not intended to be used in place of proper veterinary care.  This web site contains the opinions of the writer.  The reader of this site must use this information at his or her own risk.